Tokyo to Hokkaido (North Island of Japan) via Bullet Train (Shinkansen) . . .
Barely time to down my new, favorite brew, Hitachino
—discovered in bottle-form Christmas 2019 in San Francisco,
first opportunity to have on tap/draft—
at Tokyo Station before racing for train
Bullet Train (Shinkansen) for Hokkaido
 |
| Just broke 150 mph |
Hokkaido arrival near Hakodate . . . and snow (a bit)
 |
| Japanese-style hotel in Hakodate |
 |
| Hybrid Japanese-style room (raised bed rather than futons on tatami mats) overlooking train station and harbor |
Hokkaido is famous for two things in particular, fantastically fresh and delicious Seafood (including Tuna, Salmon, Sea Urchin, Mackerel, Squid, Scallops, Abalone, Surf Clam, “Hairy” Crab and Snow/King Crab), and world-class Skiing.
 |
| “Crab-Walk” in Hakodate Morning Market—Snow/King Crab giants |
 |
| Treasure box of prime, fresh Uni (Sea Urchin Roe) |
 |
| up close and personal |
On to Niseko . . . for Skiing(???)! “Japow,” frequently considered the best powder skiing on earth, but Japan is having its worst snow season in history. Over 600” (50 feet) of snow is common for this area, but now closer to 72” (6 feet), about 1/10 of normal.
 |
| Mt. Yotei view |
 |
| Mt. Yotei with ski area base and parking lot |
 |
| Same view the following morning, but there’s snow! |
Between low visibility and high winds, today looks like it’s only for beginners on lower-mountain. Tomorrow and the next could be promising . . . time to get fitted for gear!
 |
| Yes!!! |
 |
| Mt. Yotei on this crisp, clear day |
 |
| Farewell to Skye Niseko |
Leaving the Mountains for the Big City, Sapporo
Kutchan (Niseko) train station bound for Sapporo
 |
| Shrine in train station celebrating the Emperor’s birthday |
 |
| Our first coronavirus casualty . . . Nikka Whisky—Yoichi Distillery closed to the public 😭 |
 |
Thanks so much to Dave C. and family for tickets to the Sumo Championships in Osaka mid-March!!!
Aggressively crossing our fingers the event goes forward! |
Dinner at Gotsubo Oyster Bar—really cool, hole-in-the-wall (in an alley) seafood joint in downtown Sapporo
 |
| [Tabasco Sauce bottle for perspective] |
Day-trip to Otaru
Lunch at Isezushi
 |
| From left to right: Flounder, King Salmon, Herring, Jumbo Prawn, Surf Clam and Scallop |
 |
| King Crab, Mantis Prawn, Head of Octopus, Sea Urchin Roe, Salmon Roe and Cod Roe |
Old and New in Otaru
Back to Sapporo for dinner and the night
Snowing hard, so we’ll go to skewered, grilled meat at place across the street
 |
| Decide, what you want from menu . . . |
 |
| then, order it on iPad |
 |
| Chicken and Rice, cooked in pot over fire on table, plus a whole lot of skewered, grilled pork and chicken |
 |
| happy pig |
More (frequently inexplicable) street sightings
 |
| A major breakthrough . . . finally found a place with more than 24 hours in a day! |
 |
| and . . . ??? |
 |
| This, on the other hand, needs no explanation |
 |
| What kid doesn’t dream about “getting to do” Kumon? |
 |
| The ubiquitous vending machines . . . in train stations, public buildings, streets, etc. |
Aomori / Asamushi-Onsen for last night in Northern Japan
 |
| Aomori City, reputed to be “the snowiest city on earth,” in a normal winter [stock photo] |
 |
| Pulling into Aomori City this season . . . fallow rice paddies and no snow! |
 |
| Our traditional room at the Onsen (hot springs) |
 |
| Robe cabinet |
 |
| Bedding cabinet |
 |
| Idiot fish, it’s what’s for dinner . . . maybe |
Dinner at Onsen . . . in jammies
